One of Germany’s most popular dishes, the donner kebab has become a symbol of growing concern about the cost of living and the effects of inflation on various dimensions of people’s lives. Traditionally sold for €3.50, the average price of this meal has risen to €7.50, reflecting a significant increase that worries many citizens, especially young people.
Originating as a popular street food, the döner kebab was introduced to Germany by Turkish immigrants in West Berlin in the 70s. Today, it is one of the most consumed foods in the country, with about two million units sold daily, according to an industry association. In a 2022 study, the döner kebab beat currywurst, Germany’s most popular fast food dish.
Since 2016, the price of a doner kebab in Germany has increased by 75%, compared to a 24% increase in overall inflation, Politico notes. According to a study based on Google reviews of kebab restaurants, this increase has been particularly sharp in the last two years, with the average price rising from €5 in 2022 to €7 in 2024.
The price hike has created discontent, particularly among young Germans, leading to online calls, often jokingly, for political leaders to intervene. In a video posted on TikTok, a man shouted at German Chancellor Olaf Scholz: “Eight euros per donor! Talk to Putin! I would like to pay four euros per donor. please!”
The situation became so critical that politicians from the left-wing Tie Link party proposed a “price break” on doner kebabs. Kathi Gebel, a member of the party’s executive committee, said the request was “not an internet joke, but a serious cry for help”. According to the proposal, the government would set a maximum price of €4.90 per donner kebab and provide a subsidy of €3 per unit, resulting in an annual cost of €4 billion based on an estimate of 1.3 billion donner kebabs consumed. Germany annually.
In response to frequent requests, Chancellor Olaf Scholes announced on TikTok that “there will be no price break for kebabs.” According to preliminary estimates by the Federal Statistics Office, Scholz emphasized that Germany lives in a market economy, although inflation in the country is slowing, falling from 6.2% last year to 2.2% in June.
Donner kebab prices have soared, especially after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, due to rising energy and commodity prices. Timo Wolmershäuser, a macroeconomic expert at Germany’s ifo Institute, said, “The prices of commodities, grains and meat have increased. This also applies to energy and consequently labor costs.
Even if inflation eases, donner kebab prices are not expected to drop, but rather rise at a slower pace. “The price increases we’ve seen in recent years will be permanent,” Wolmershäuser said, attributing the trend to significant wage increases in recent years.
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